“He’s a hired thug,” says Jennifer Goodman Wollock, a professor of medieval studies at Texas A&M University who has written two books about chivalry. In the middle of the 11th century, the knight was not a particularly honorable figure. The word chivalry itself comes from the Medieval Latin caballarius, meaning horseman. The development of chivalry went hand-in-hand with the rise of knights-heavily armored, mounted warriors from elite backgrounds-starting around the time of the Norman conquest of England in 1066. While these rules sometimes dictated generous treatment of the less-fortunate and less-powerful, they were focused mainly on protecting the interests of elites. But during the Middle Ages, the code was established for much grittier reasons.Īt a time of routine military violence with massive civilian casualties, chivalry was an effort to set ground rules for knightly behavior. Some estimates place them being worn as state apparel as late as 1525.In the 21st century, the word chivalry evokes a kind of old-fashioned male respect for women. Despite this, sideless surcoats continued to be worn as ceremonial dress well into the 15th century, long after they had ceased to be fashionable. The style drew criticism from some moralists, who thought the garment drew an inappropriate amount of attention to the female body. The narrow strip covering the torso, known as the plackard, was usually no more than a foot wide. This was a sleeveless, floor-length garment featuring exaggerated armholes, which at their most extreme were open from shoulder to hip, revealing the gown underneath. A particular style, known as the sideless surcoat, developed as a fashion in the 14th century. Women began wearing surcoats during the 13th century, both with and without sleeves. This period in the history of armour development, in which surcoats became increasingly rare, is referred to as the "surcoatless period" (1420-1485). In the 15th century, once suits of plate armour became common, the surcoat was phased out of use. By the mid-fourteenth century, it was replaced with the "jupon" (or "gipon"), a much shorter item, often padded for supplementary protection. In the early fourteenth century, the front of the knight's surcoat was shortened so that it was longer at the back and knee-length at the front, allowing greater freedom of movement and eliminating the danger of a rider getting his spurs caught in the garment. Indeed, some historians cite this as one of the reasons behind the spread of heraldry across medieval Europe. The surcoat displayed the device of the knight (origin of the term " coat of arms"), thereby identifying him, which in turn, combined with the increased use of the great helm (late 12th century, early 13th century), became an essential means of recognition. Historians believe that the practice of wearing white surcoats was adopted during the Crusades, their main purpose being to reflect the direct sun, which overheated the armour (and the soldier inside) – although it may be argued that here its color would have been of little help, while in poor weather they helped keep rain and the muck of battle away from the easily corroded mail links. These usually extended to about mid-calf, had slits in the bottom front and back, allowing the wearer to ride comfortably, and were either sleeved or sleeveless. From the early to mid 13th century, these were frequently emblazoned with their personal arms, over their armour. History Men's surcoat įrom about the late 12th century, knights wore long, flowing surcoats. The name derives from French meaning "over the coat", a long, loose, often sleeveless coat reaching down to the feet. In the battlefield the surcoat was also helpful with keeping the sun off the soldier and their armor which helped prevent heat stroke and heat exhaustion. It was worn over armor to show insignia and help identify what side the soldier was on. Image from the Hungarian Illuminated Chronicle.Ī surcoat or surcote is an outer garment that was commonly worn in the Middle Ages by soldiers. Saint Stephen, King of Hungary with a jupon bearing his arms, white and red stripes.
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